Nobody is lukewarm about oysters, especially when they're served raw on the half shell. There are lovers and there are haters.
Still, if an oyster fan ever wanted to try to convert someone squeamish, there's no better place to make that pitch than at Elliott's. As soon as you walk in the door, you have to admire the spectacular 21-foot icy bar heaped with bivalves from chilly Northwest waters. There are up to 60 varieties of four species, their availability depending on the season. Take a seat at the bar to watch champion oyster shucker David Leck do his thing. The results are stunning. Not always in a good way, but more on that in a minute.
After many trips to this beautifully situated waterfront restaurant, I can't help wondering what it would be like if the rest of the menu were as dazzling as the gems from the oyster bar. It's not that the food is bad, it just seems so institutional, often lacking finesse. I just know this restaurant is capable of better. It wouldn't take a radical makeover to elevate dishes to the same level of Elliott's sister restaurant, Metropolitan Grill. The quality ingredients are already in place and the longstanding ties to fish supplies are a big part of the restaurant's drawing power. With a little more attention to detail, Elliott's might transcend its reputation as a tourist destination and become one of the finest seafood restaurants in Seattle, period.
Let's start with the oysters. The exhaustive menu itself is quite an achievement, offering a mini Oysters 101, a nicely written introduction to the Northwest's most famous shellfish. If all those options seem daunting, ask your server for advice. The staff is well-versed, even explaining the various growing techniques. Relying on their guidance, I've enjoyed at least a dozen four-star oyster experiences at Elliott's.
That's why it was so disappointing to find a real stinker among my half dozen Totten Virginicas during a recent dinner. When I pointed out the less-than-fresh oyster to the server, he explained that sometimes oysters turn a shade of brown when they're left out in the sun. Really?
He took the offending oyster to Leck for further review and quickly returned to apologize. There was a new guy on the shucking line who should have never let it go, and the server said he had not bothered to give it a second glance because Leck was in the house. Yikes! When you're dealing with a shellfish that has the potential to make a diner sick, the entire staff needs to be hyperdiligent.
Did one bad oyster spoil the whole experience? Not even close, but it was a wake-up call that oyster lovers should take a whiff before letting those slippery shellfish slide down their throats. And speak up if something doesn't seem right.
There were less dramatic problems with the rest of the meal. The quality of the halibut cheeks was outstanding, the mild chunk of fish making like lobster in its sweet taste and texture. But the kitchen used a heavy hand to dredge the fish and the flour turned the preparation gummy. On the other hand, the accompanying green beans were just right, perfectly tender-crisp.
An upscale turn on the humble keta, a salmon otherwise known as chum, fell short, too. Not because the fish -- sourced from the Yukon River -- wasn't cooked correctly. It was still moist, cooked just to the point where the flesh easily flakes. It proved the fish deserves a place on an upscale menu. But the seasonings were off balance, the fish massaged with a spice rub that had a distractingly sweet note. Also, the thin piece of alder on which the salmon was cooked didn't add the same kind of flavor you get when it's cooked on a true plank.
Yet, for all the fumbles, there also were completions: a wonderful seared ahi starter; the warm sourdough rolls; the excellent selection of wines by the glass and, of course, the incredible view. When making the reservation, I had requested a window table. The receptionist said those prime spots are available on a first-come, first-served basis. That seems fair enough, except when I watched as twosomes that arrived after I was shown to an OK table were seated near the window. What gives?
The problem might be solved if Elliott's updated the dining room, opening it up even more to the Puget Sound view.
Even if you don't have the greatest seat, Elliott's offers some of the city's best people-watching opportunities. Because it's a magnet for tourists, I've seen visitors from around the world delight when an icy tray of oysters is set on an elevated perch on their tables. I've seen one diner drag luggage to her table. Last spring, I watched a big bunch of dressed-up promsters celebrating their big night out.
The extensive menu covers a lot of territory beyond seafood in an effort to please a wide range of palates. It serves one of the best steak salads I've ever eaten, featuring prime sirloin sliced over Dijon vinaigrette-tossed greens and drizzled in blue cheese. The steak was cooked beyond the medium rare I had ordered, but it didn't detract from the tenderness of the well-seasoned piece of beef.
I loved the blue cheese dressing on the shrimp salad, too. Bay shrimp, chopped eggs, tomatoes and toasted hazelnuts topped hearts of romaine on this winning salad.
When I took a Dungeness crab-craving out-of-towner to lunch on a brilliant summer afternoon, I couldn't help feeling the swell of civic pride as she dug into the excellent -- and expensive -- crab cocktail. The $19 "small plate" was a nice assortment of body and claw meat, judiciously complemented by a house cocktail sauce, which could have used a bit more horseradish.
Unfortunately, the crab was less evident in the order of crab cakes; the meat was almost pureed in the creamy mixture. Barely seared on each side, these were more like pudding than cake.
And the breading on an order of calamari detached from the rings and tentacles, leaving greasy bits of crispy batter at the bottom of the serving dish. A truly seasoned waiter wouldn't have served that dish.
The Pike Ale batter was the best thing about an order of fish 'n' chips. The generous portion featured Alaskan cod, but the fish was bland and slightly dry.
For dessert, the options are the usual over-the-top treats: fried chocolate truffle sundae, creme brulee, cheesecake. The berry crisp sounded promising, but the fruit was lost in the overly thick filling.
Elliott's definitely has lots of good qualities. Again, I admire the restaurant's pledge to serve sustainable seafood. And despite the bivalve bummer, it's still my favorite oyster bar in Seattle. I'm convinced this landmark venue can navigate some choppy waters and enjoy smooth sailing.
original article by: By LESLIE KELLY
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